Sat May 23
Arrival — first night wander
easy landing
~8pm land
Narita Express → Shinjuku (~90 min), check in, grab Suica cards at airport
Staying: Shinjuku hotel (confirmed ¥134/night)
Stock up at 7-Eleven in the station. Get yen from the ATM (7-Bank ATMs at airport accept foreign cards).
10pm–lateShibuya Crossing → Nonbei Yokocho → Omoide Yokocho (Memory Lane)
night walk Nonbei is lantern-lit tiny bars. Omoide Yokocho is smoky yakitori stalls — great first-night snack and drink.
Sun May 24
Kamakura + Enoshima day trip → Golden Gai night
coastal day trip + Tokyo evening
7:30amShinjuku → Kamakura (JR Shonan-Shinjuku Line, ~1hr direct)
Grab an onigiri at the station konbini. Sit on the right side for coastal glimpses. ~¥940/person — use Suica, covered by JR
8:45–10amKotoku-in — the Great Buddha (Daibutsu)
Buddhist 13-meter outdoor bronze Buddha, 1252 CE. You can go inside it.
10–11:30amHasedera Temple — hilltop ocean views + Kannon statue
Buddhist Sweeping views over Sagami Bay. Giant gilded 11-headed Kannon inside. Cave shrine below worth doing.
11:30am–1pmKomachi-dori street + shirasu rice bowl lunch
food Shirasu (whitebait) rice bowls are the Kamakura specialty — fresh from the bay. Local crafts and matcha shops on the covered street.
1–1:30pmDaibutsu Hiking Trail — short forested ridge walk
Not strenuous. Connects to the Enoden tram line at the end.
1:30–2pmEnoden tram → Enoshima (~25 min along the coast)
Sit on the left side — the stretch where the tiny tram passes inches from the beach is one of those Japan moments that doesn't look real. ~¥260 — Suica
2–4:30pmEnoshima island — shrine climb + Iwaya sea caves
Shinto Walk the bridge, climb the shrine complex. Iwaya Caves at the far end — walk through with candles, genuinely atmospheric.
4:30–5:30pmSit on Katase-Enoshima beach
Late May sunset ~6:30pm. Clear days: Fuji visible to the northwest — the classic postcard shot.
6–7pmCasual seafood dinner in Enoshima harbor
dinner Fresh shirasu, grilled fish. No reservation needed.
7–8:30pmFujisawa/Enoshima → Shinjuku (~1hr) ~¥640 — Suica/JR
9pm–lateGolden Gai night walk
night walk 200+ tiny bars, each fits ~6 people. Walk in wherever looks interesting.
Mon May 25
East + West Tokyo — Senso-ji · Skytree · TNM · Yanaka · Meiji · Harajuku · Ginza · Pokémon · Omakase
the big day
6:45–7:45amSenso-ji at dawn
Buddhist Almost no one there before 8am. Light incense, walk the grounds in quiet. ~20 min subway from Shinjuku (Oedo Line → Asakusa)
8–9amTokyo Skytree — Tembo Deck + Galleria
book ahead Right next to Senso-ji. 350m deck + 450m glass-floor Galleria. Morning = clearest views, best Fuji chance.
9–9:30amNakamise snacks + quick Asakusa browse
10am–12pmTokyo National Museum (Ueno)
culture World's largest Japanese art collection. Buddhist sculpture wing first — it's exceptional. ~15 min walk from Asakusa
12–1:30pmYanaka neighborhood — lunch + slow wander
Old shitamachi Tokyo, 15 min walk from Ueno. Temple graveyards, cats, indie coffee. Yanaka Coffee roastery is a great stop.
2–3:30pmMeiji Jingu shrine + forested walk
culture ~25 min from Yanaka by train (Nippori → Harajuku). Towering cedar torii gates.
3:30–4:30pmTakeshita Street → Omotesando + Uniqlo flagship (3 floors)
shop
4:30–5pm% Arabica Omotesando or Koffee Mameya
cafe Koffee Mameya is in a tiny alley off Omotesando — worth finding for Ansel especially.
5–6:30pmGinza — GINZA SIX + Mikimoto pearls + Kyotokimonoichiba kimono
shop GINZA SIX free rooftop garden with views. Mikimoto pearl flagship on the main strip.
6:30–7:15pmPokémon Center Mega Tokyo (Ikebukuro)
shop Direct subway from Ginza (~15 min). The flagship.
7:30pmSushi AKA omakase (Shinjuku)
dinner book ahead 8-seat Michelin-listed Edomae counter, ~2 hrs. Book weeks ahead via Tableall or Omakase.in.
10pm–lateShimokitazawa night wander + late cafe
night walk cafe 15 min from Shinjuku on the Odakyu line. Record shops, vintage, live music, late cafes.
🚄 Tue May 26 morning — Shinjuku → Hakone via Odakyu Romancecar (~80 min · not JR Pass · buy Hakone Freepass from Shinjuku + Romancecar seat surcharge separately)
Tue May 26
Hakone loop + ryokan onsen night
scenic + slow
10am arrive
Hakone Tozan Railway → Gora
Slowest mountain railway in Japan — zigzag switchbacks up the hillside. All covered by Hakone Freepass.
Staying: Ryokan suite (Expedia · $265, confirmed)
11am–1pmHakone Open Air Museum
culture Massive sculpture park, Picasso pavilion, incredible mountain backdrop. Freepass discount.
1–2:30pmCable car → Owakudani volcanic valley
Active sulfur vents. Kuro tamago (black eggs hard-boiled in volcanic springs) — eat one for good luck. All on Freepass.
2:30–4pmLake Ashi cruise → Moto-Hakone lakeside cedar torii walk
Pirate ship cruise across the lake — on Freepass. Clear day = Fuji views. Lakeside torii avenue is beautiful.
4pmRyokan check-in → yukata → private onsen
7pmKaiseki dinner (included at ryokan)
dinner Multi-course traditional meal, unhurried. Usually 1.5–2 hrs.
After dinnerNight onsen soak + dawn onsen at sunrise
Do both — the early morning bath with mountain mist is worth setting an alarm for.
🚄 Wed May 27 — Odawara → Kyoto Shinkansen (~2h10 · Hikari service · buy individual ticket via SmartEX app · ~¥13,850/person)
Wed May 27
Arrive + Fushimi Inari + Gion night + Kamo River
beautiful evening
12pm arrive
Check in, lunch at Nishiki Market
Staying: Kawaramachi hotel (¥81–¥114/night, confirmed)
food "Kyoto's kitchen" — tamagoyaki, pickles, skewered tofu. Eat as you walk.
2–6pmFushimi Inari Taisha — full hike to Yotsutsuji
Shinto Do the full ~2.5hr loop. Late afternoon light through the torii is the best version. ~15 min by JR Nara Line from Kyoto Station · ¥180
7–8:30pmGion walk → Hanamikoji + Shirakawa canal at night
night walk Shirakawa canal lit at night — one of the most beautiful walks in Japan.
8:30pmDinner on Pontocho + kawayuka riverside terrace
dinner Kawayuka (wooden terraces over the Kamo River) open in late May — eat outside over the water.
After dinnerKamo River sit — combini drink on the bank
night walk Couples sit equidistant along the river by unwritten rule. Very Kyoto.
Thu May 28
Arashiyama dawn + temples all day + wagyu sukiyaki + Philosopher's Path
packed temple day
6:30–8amArashiyama Bamboo Grove (arrive before 7am)
Magical before crowds. ~30 min from Kawaramachi by Hankyu + Randen tram or bus
8–10amTenryu-ji gardens → Jojakko-ji temple
Zen Buddhist Tenryu-ji is UNESCO. Jojakko-ji is mossy, quiet, pagoda — almost always empty and genuinely moving.
10–11am% Arabica Arashiyama — coffee on the Oi River
cafe One of the most beautiful cafe locations in the world.
11am–12pmBike rental along the Katsura River
1–2:30pmSanjusangen-do
Buddhist 1,001 golden Kannon statues in a single long wooden hall. One of the most awe-inspiring rooms in Japan.
3–4:30pmKinkaku-ji (Golden Pavilion)
Buddhist Touristy but genuinely stunning. Budget 45 min max.
5–6:30pmKiyomizu-dera + Sannenzaka/Ninenzaka lanes at golden hour
Buddhist The big stage temple. Walk the stone-paved lanes down — matcha soft serve, ceramics, gifts.
7:30pmWagyu Sukiyaki Chikarayama Pontocho — kawayuka riverside terrace
dinner book ahead A5 wagyu sukiyaki, staff cooks tableside. Riverside terrace over the Kamo River.
After dinnerPhilosopher's Path night walk
night walk Canal walkway, lantern-lit, almost no one there after 9pm. Very quiet and romantic.
🚄 Fri May 29 morning — Kyoto → Osaka (~15 min Shinkansen Hikari or 30 min JR Rapid Shinkansen · ~¥1,420 JR Rapid (free on Suica/IC card on JR Kyoto Line) · or ¥2,270 Shinkansen · Rapid is fine)
Fri May 29
Arrive + Shitennoji + Castle + Kuromon + Dotonbori + Amerika-Mura
history then food energy
10am arrive
Check in Namba, drop bags
Staying: Namba hotel (¥105/night + ¥45 breakfast · confirmed)
10:30–12pmShitennoji Temple
Buddhist Japan's oldest Buddhist temple (593 CE). Calm, almost tourist-free, genuinely sacred. ~15 min subway from Namba
12–2pmOsaka Castle + museum
culture Great Sengoku-period museum inside. Nishinomaru Garden lovely in late May.
2:30–4pmKuromon Ichiba Market food crawl
food Oysters, crab claws, wagyu skewers eaten standing. This is the move. ~15 min walk from Castle
4–5:30pmDen Den Town browse
shop Osaka's Akihabara — electronics and anime, less overwhelming.
7–9pmDotonbori street dinner: takoyaki + okonomiyaki
food Aizuya for takoyaki, Mizuno for okonomiyaki. Walk the canal at night — neon on the water is the Osaka postcard.
9pm–lateAmerika-Mura night walk + late cafe
night walk cafe Streetwear district, murals, Triangle Park. Cafe Absinthe stays open late.
Sat May 30
Nara day trip + Shinsaibashi + Umeda Sky + final wagyu night
day trip + send-off dinner
8:30–1pmNara day trip
Buddhist Kintetsu Namba → Kintetsu Nara, ~40 min, ~¥680. Todai-ji — giant bronze Buddha. Kasuga Grand Shrine. Free-roaming deer that literally bow for crackers.
1:30–3:30pmShinsaibashi covered arcade + last-minute shopping
shop Uniqlo, Loft, Don Quijote for gifts and cosmetics.
4–5:30pmUmeda Sky Building — floating observatory at dusk
Connected by open-air escalator. One of the more unusual architectural experiences in Japan. ~15 min subway Namba → Umeda
6–7pmCafe time before dinner
cafe % Arabica Shinsaibashi or Cafe de L'Ambre (old school charcoal coffee).
7:30pmMAIDO Wagyu Yakiniku (Dotonbori) — final dinner
dinner All-you-can-eat A5 wagyu. Cook at the table, high energy. Perfect send-off.
After dinnerFinal Dotonbori canal walk
night walk Walk it slowly. Don't go too late — early departure tomorrow.
Sun May 31
Osaka → Tokyo → last afternoon → fly home
departure day
MorningLast combini breakfast, pack, check out
By 10amShin-Osaka → Tokyo Shinkansen (~2h20) ~¥14,720/person Hikari reserved
Arrive Tokyo ~12:30pm. Leave bags in a coin locker at Shinjuku Station (¥300–700/day).
1–4:30pmLast Tokyo afternoon — Shinjuku or Ginza
browse Last-minute shopping or slow walk. Isetan Shinjuku basement food hall for last gifts.
~5pmShinjuku → Narita via N'EX (~90 min) ~¥3,070/person
Catch the ~5pm N'EX. Arrive Narita ~6:30pm — plenty of time for a 9:30pm departure.
Accommodation
confirmed bookings
Tokyo · Shinjuku · May 23–25 (2 nights)
Confirmed hotel · ¥134/night · ¥445 total (2 nights)
Shinjuku · central
Near Omoide Yokocho + Golden Gai
Easy Odakyu access for Hakone
Hakone · May 26 (1 night ryokan)
Confirmed ryokan suite · $265 total
Onsen suite included
Kaiseki dinner + breakfast
Get there early for afternoon soak
Kyoto · Kawaramachi · May 27–28 (2 nights)
Confirmed hotel · ¥81/night · ¥179 total (or ¥114 w/ buffet breakfast)
Kawaramachi · walkable to Gion + Pontocho
10 min walk to Fushimi Inari subway
Consider the buffet — Kyoto breakfast is worth it
Osaka · Namba · May 29–31 (2 nights)
Confirmed hotel · ¥105/night · ¥231 total + ¥45×2 breakfast
Namba · steps from Dotonbori + Kuromon
Easy Kintetsu Namba line for Nara day trip
Skip buffet here — eat at Kuromon instead
⏰ Book ahead now — these fill fast
Skytree Tembo Deck (book online, beats the line) · Sushi AKA Shinjuku omakase (weeks ahead via omakase.in or Tableall) · Wagyu Sukiyaki Chikarayama Pontocho (at least 2–3 weeks out) · Romancecar Hakone seat upgrade (buy when you get the Freepass) · Any high-end omakase or shabu-shabu from the rec list below.
Food & Cafe Recs
by neighborhood — look these up and book ahead where noted
🗼 Tokyo — Shinjuku, Shimokitazawa, Ginza, Asakusa
Sushi Takamitsu (Shibuya/Meguro)
omakasebook far ahead
One of Tokyo's most acclaimed Edomae counters — reservation-only, nearly impossible to get but try via Tableall. The Kyoto branch (Gion Takamitsu) on Hanamikoji opened 2025 if you can't get Tokyo.
Yoroniku (Ebisu)
wagyu yakinikubook ahead
~18-course wagyu yakiniku omakase — chef grills each cut in front of you. Celebratory, lively atmosphere. One of the best single-restaurant meals in Tokyo. ~¥25,000+/person.
Yurakucho Kakida (Shinjuku)
omakase sushi
Trendy counter in Shinjuku doing high-quality omakase with an all-you-can-enjoy option. Very accessible and foreign-visitor friendly. ~¥15,000 dinner. 3 min from Shinjuku south exit.
Nakahara (Roppongi/Azabu)
wagyu yakinikubook ahead
Hyper beef-focused 8-course kuroge wagyu. Don't skip the gyukatsu sando add-on. Intimate, quiet — contrast to Yoroniku's energy. ~¥20,000/person.
Koffee Mameya (Omotesando)
cafe
The best-for-Ansel stop in Tokyo. Single-origin bar in a tiny alley off Omotesando — staff walks you through origins and brewing. Standing-only but worth every sip.
Yanaka Coffee (Yanaka)
cafe
Old-school roastery in the most Tokyo-feeling neighborhood remaining. Buy beans too — they ship internationally if you want to take some home.
Shibuya Gyukatsu (Shibuya)
food
Breaded wagyu cutlet that you finish on a personal stone grill. The concept is genius — controls how done your beef is. Long lines but moves fast; go during off-peak lunch.
Omoide Yokocho / Nonbei Yokocho (Shinjuku)
late nightnight
Already in itinerary Day 1, but revisit anytime. Omoide Yokocho = smoky yakitori; Nonbei = lantern-lit cocktail bars. The contrast is the draw.
🏔 Hakone — day of, near ryokan
Ryokan kaiseki (included)
dinner
Your ryokan dinner is the main event. Multi-course, slow, beautiful. Don't eat a big lunch that day.
Hakone Yumoto — small ramen/soba spots
lunch
The area around Hakone-Yumoto Station has several good soba and ramen shops for a quick lunch before starting the loop. Walk the station area and pick what looks busy.
Kuro tamago (black eggs, Owakudani)
snack
Eggs hard-boiled in the volcanic sulfur springs, turns shells black. Sold at the cable car station — supposed to add 7 years to your life per egg. One each.
⛩ Kyoto — Kawaramachi, Gion, Pontocho, Arashiyama
Gion Takamitsu (Hanamikoji, Gion)
omakase sushibook far ahead
Spinoff of Tokyo's legendary Sushi Takamitsu — opened 2025 on Hanamikoji. Already renowned. Reserve via Tableall. Setting alone (historic Gion street) is extraordinary.
Sushi Ao (Gion)
omakase sushibook ahead
Produced by Kikunoi (Kyoto's 3-Michelin kaiseki institution). Traditional townhouse, kaiseki elements woven between nigiri courses. Uniquely Kyoto in style.
Gion Kaifuku Haru-Haru (Gion)
shabu shabubook ahead
Premium Kobe and Kyoto wagyu shabu-shabu served in natural crystal pots. Serene Japanese-style interior, menu in multiple languages, wooden plaque souvenir. ~¥8,500/person.
Tendan Gion (Gion)
yakinikubook ahead
Kyoto-style yakiniku (lighter dashi sauce instead of standard thick sauce). Views over Gion from the table. Summer all-you-can-drink plan or omakase chef's choice menu. ~¥16,000/person.
Nikuryori Oka (Gion)
wagyu omakasebook ahead
Aged wagyu in the heart of Gion — chef compares three types side by side. One of the most interesting beef experiences in Japan. Located near Gion on tableall.com.
% Arabica Arashiyama
cafe
Already in the itinerary — but legitimately one of the most beautiful cafe locations in the world. Single origin espresso, outdoor seating over the Oi River. Go before 10am.
Walden Woods Kyoto (Kawaramachi)
cafe
Specialty-roast coffee shop in a refined old machiya near your hotel. Light roast focus, careful pour-overs. One of Kyoto's best for serious coffee. 10 min walk from Kawaramachi Station.
Taisushi (Pontocho)
sushi
Retro, locally loved, affordable omakase nigiri right on Pontocho. Great contrast to the high-end options — casual counter, ~¥3,000–4,000/person. No reservation needed.
Nishiki Market (Kawaramachi)
food
Already in itinerary Day 1 for lunch. But worth knowing: the covered market is great for tsukemono (pickles) and yuba (tofu skin) to eat-and-walk anytime.
🏮 Osaka — Namba, Shinsaibashi, Umeda, Dotonbori
Harijyu Dotonbori (Dotonbori)
sukiyaki / shabu-shabubook ahead
Over 100 years old. A well-established sukiyaki and shabu-shabu institution right in the heart of Dotonbori. Reliable for premium wagyu hot pot without the extreme prices of Gion-tier spots.
Kobe Aburi Bokujo (Shinsaibashi)
yakiniku · Kobe beefbook ahead
Run directly by a meat wholesaler — "Aburi Bokujo Stairs" presentation of Kobe beef and kuroge wagyu is stunning visually and flavor-wise. Private rooms available. Near Shinsaibashi station.
MAIDO Wagyu Yakiniku (Dotonbori)
yakiniku A5 AYCE
Already in itinerary as final dinner. All-you-can-eat A5 wagyu at the table. High energy, friendly staff, generous time limit. Perfect last-night move.
Kuromon Ichiba Market (Nipponbashi)
food crawl
Already in itinerary Day 3. The move is oysters-then-crab-then-wagyu-skewer eaten standing. Budget ¥2,000–3,000/person for the full crawl.
Brooklyn Roasting Co. Namba
cafe
Large, industrial-style, great coffee and proper food (sandwiches, pastries). Opens early, very near Namba Station. Good breakfast option. Buy beans to take home.
Yatt Coffee (Nakazakicho)
cafe
Consistently called Osaka's best cafe atmosphere — chill, local, serves proper breakfast alongside excellent coffee. 15 min subway from Namba to Nakazakicho (Tanimachi Line). Worth the detour on a slow morning.
Mizuno (Dotonbori)
okonomiyaki
The classic Osaka okonomiyaki spot on Dotonbori. Iconic, touristy, but genuinely the real thing. Watch it cooked on the iron griddle in front of you. No reservation; expect a short wait.
Cafe de L'Ambre (Shinsaibashi)
kissaten
Old-school kissaten (Japanese coffee house) — aged charcoal-roasted coffee, served in vintage cups, utterly still atmosphere. The opposite of third-wave. Perfect pre-dinner ritual.
Transportation
how to buy, what to get, estimated fares for two people
The short version: Skip the nationwide JR Pass — it doesn't pay off for your specific route. Instead: get two Suica IC cards at the airport for all city transit, buy individual Shinkansen tickets via SmartEX app for the two big legs, and get a Hakone Freepass for the Hakone day from Shinjuku. Total inter-city transport cost for two is roughly ¥65,000–70,000 (~$440–470) vs. ¥100,000 for two 7-day JR Passes. Meaningful savings.
7-Day JR Pass (nationwide)
¥50,000/person · ¥100,000 for two. Doesn't cover Hakone (Odakyu line), Tokyo Metro, Osaka Metro, or the Nozomi shinkansen (fastest). After the 2023 price hike, your Golden Route itinerary without Hiroshima doesn't break even.
Individual tickets + Suica + Hakone Freepass
~¥32,000–35,000/person · ~¥65,000–70,000 for two. Covers everything, lets you ride the faster Nozomi, no activation window pressure. Buy Shinkansen tickets on SmartEX app before you go.
1 · Narita Airport → Shinjuku hotel (Arrival, May 23)
Take: Narita Express (N'EX) — JR train, departs Terminal 1/2/3. Buy at the airport JR ticket counter or machine (IC card also works but pricier than the N'EX round-trip deal).
Time: ~90 min direct to Shinjuku Station
Cost: ¥3,070/person one way · ¥4,070 round trip
Buy: At the JR East Travel Center at the airport (buy while getting your Suica card). Ask for the "N'EX Tokyo round trip" for a slight discount if you plan to return from Shinjuku on May 31.
Get Suica here: At the same JR East counter or vending machine. Load ¥3,000–5,000 on each card immediately. Suica works on all subways, JR local trains, and some buses throughout Tokyo, Kyoto, and Osaka.
2 · Tokyo local transit (May 23–25)
Use: Suica IC card for everything — tap in, tap out.
Lines to know: JR Yamanote Line (the big circle — hits Shinjuku, Shibuya, Harajuku, Ueno, Akihabara, Tokyo Station). Tokyo Metro for east-west trips. Odakyu Line from Shinjuku for Shimokitazawa.
Kamakura day trip (May 24): Shinjuku → Kamakura on JR Shonan-Shinjuku Line, direct, ~1hr. ~¥940/person each way, pay with Suica. Enoden tram in Kamakura/Enoshima area also Suica-compatible.
Typical subway fare: ¥170–280/ride. Load enough yen at a top-up machine when you get low.
3 · Shinjuku → Hakone (May 26)
Take: Odakyu Line from Shinjuku Station (west exit, Odakyu platforms)
What to buy: Hakone Freepass (2-day, from Shinjuku) — buy this at the Odakyu Sightseeing Service Center (B1 of Shinjuku Station west exit, open 8am–6pm). Buy the day before or the morning of.
Freepass cost: ¥7,100/person includes round-trip Shinjuku ↔ Odawara + all Hakone transit (Tozan Railway, Cable Car, Ropeway, Lake Ashi pirate cruise, buses)
Romancecar upgrade: +¥1,200/person each way — reserved seat on the scenic limited express (80 min instead of 100+, panoramic windows). Worth it. Book at same Odakyu counter.
Total Hakone transport per person: ~¥9,500 (Freepass + Romancecar both ways)
Note: You'll exit Hakone via Odawara Station (not back to Shinjuku) to catch the Shinkansen to Kyoto — so you only use the Shinjuku↔Odawara segment one way. This is fine; the Freepass covers it.
4 · Odawara → Kyoto Shinkansen (May 27)
Take: Tokaido Shinkansen from Odawara Station. Take Hikari service (stops at Odawara; Nozomi skips it). Travel time ~2h10 to Kyoto.
Cost: ~¥13,850/person reserved seat, regular season
How to buy: Use the SmartEX app (smart-ex.jp) — download before the trip, link a credit card, book in English. You get a QR code, skip the ticket counter entirely. Can also buy at JR ticket machines or counter at any major station. Book a few weeks ahead to guarantee your preferred time.
Which seat: Book seats on the right (D/E side) — Mt. Fuji is visible from the right side going westbound, roughly 40–50 min into the journey. Keep eyes open around Shin-Fuji Station.
5 · Kyoto local transit (May 27–28)
Use: Suica for Kyoto subway (Karasuma Line, Tozai Line) and JR local trains.
Fushimi Inari (May 27): Kyoto Station → Inari Station on JR Nara Line, 5 min, ¥180 — use Suica.
Arashiyama (May 28 dawn): From Kawaramachi, take Hankyu Line to Katsura, change to Hankyu Arashiyama Line to Arashiyama (Hankyu). ~30 min total. ~¥230 — Suica works on Hankyu. Alternative: Randen (Keifuku) tram from Shijo-Omiya, ~20 min to Arashiyama — ¥250, very scenic.
Kinkaku-ji, Ryoan-ji area: City Bus 101 or 205 from Kyoto Station — ¥230 flat, one day bus pass available (¥700) if you're doing 4+ bus rides.
Suica note: Suica works on Kyoto subway, JR local lines, and Hankyu. It does NOT work on Kyoto city buses (pay cash ¥230, or buy the 1-day bus card at tourist info inside Kyoto Station).
6 · Kyoto → Osaka (May 29)
Recommended: JR Rapid (Shinkaisoku) from Kyoto Station → Osaka Namba area via Tennoji, or straight to Osaka Station. ~¥560/person · ~30 min · pay with Suica. No need to buy a Shinkansen ticket for this short hop — total overkill.
For Namba specifically: JR Rapid to Shin-Imamiya/Tennoji then Osaka Metro to Namba (~15 more min), or take the Hankyu from Kyoto-Kawaramachi to Umeda then Osaka Metro south — depends on your hotel's exact neighborhood. Google Maps directions work perfectly for this.
Time: ~30–45 min door to door.
7 · Osaka local transit (May 29–31)
Use: Suica for Osaka Metro (all lines) and JR Osaka Loop Line.
Nara day trip (May 30): Kintetsu Namba Station (different from JR Namba — 5 min walk from Namba area) → Kintetsu Nara. ~¥680/person each way · ~40 min · pay with Suica. Much better than the JR route. Buy at the Kintetsu machine — or just tap Suica.
Umeda (May 30): Osaka Metro Midosuji Line from Namba → Umeda, 8 min, ¥230.
Key note: Osaka Metro and the private Kintetsu line are NOT covered by any JR pass — you need Suica (or cash) for these regardless.
8 · Osaka (Shin-Osaka) → Tokyo Shinkansen (May 31)
Take: Tokaido Shinkansen from Shin-Osaka Station (not Osaka Station — take the Midosuji Line metro 1 stop north from Umeda/Osaka Station to Shin-Osaka, or 5 stops from Namba, ~10–12 min). Take Hikari or Nozomi — Nozomi is fastest (~2h22) but requires booking separately. Hikari is ~2h40.
Cost: ~¥14,720/person Hikari reserved · ~¥15,280 Nozomi reserved
How to buy: SmartEX app same as before. Book this leg when you book the Odawara→Kyoto leg — both can be done in the app before you leave home.
Seat side: On the return (eastbound), Fuji is on your LEFT side.
9 · Tokyo → Narita Airport (May 31 evening)
Take: N'EX (Narita Express) from Shinjuku Station → Narita Terminal 1/2/3. Departs ~5:00–5:15pm to arrive ~6:30pm for a 9:30pm flight.
Cost: ¥3,070/person (or ~¥500 cheaper if you bought the round-trip N'EX deal on arrival)
Luggage note: Leave bags in a coin locker at Shinjuku when you arrive from Osaka (~¥400–700/day for a large locker). Pick them up before catching the N'EX. The locker area is well-signed at Shinjuku Station.
📱 Apps & cards to set up before departure
SmartEX app (smart-ex.jp/en) — book both Shinkansen legs (Odawara→Kyoto and Shin-Osaka→Tokyo) before you fly. English interface, link a Visa/Mastercard, receive QR codes, scan at the gate. Do this at least 2–3 weeks before May 27 and May 31. | Suica card — pick up at Narita Airport JR East Travel Center on arrival. Load ¥5,000 each to start. Top up at any JR vending machine. | Hakone Freepass — buy in person at Odakyu Sightseeing Service Center in Shinjuku Station (B1, west exit) on the morning of May 26, or the day before. Get the 2-day version from Shinjuku (¥7,100). Add Romancecar seat tickets at the same counter (¥1,200 each way). | Google Maps — works extremely well for Japanese transit. Type your start and end and it will show you exactly which train/subway/bus, what to pay, and when to transfer. Use it constantly.